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Post Info TOPIC: Rebuild posi, box rear CA, new bushings, etc


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Rebuild posi, box rear CA, new bushings, etc
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Just started to remove rear housing. Bob is helping with the posi. expecting it  to be a long process.  I thing Stan is much faster.  I think I may have to remove the rear exhaust pipe to get the upper CA‘s out.  May just have to cut the muffler exits off then deal with the muffler hangers.



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Jim L

Lake City



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Yes, lots of work to remove a 55 year old part. You probably know this, but remove the sway bar and shocks first and let the axle down on a floor jack as far as it will go. This will provide the most room to remove the upper ca nuts at the diff. You won't be able to remove the bolts in that position, as they are binding too much. Once you have the upper and lower nuts, at the axle, off, jack the axle back into ride height position and work the bolts out. Once the axle is out, you have much better access to the upper ca bolts in the frame to remove without cutting the exhaust.



-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Tuesday 14th of December 2021 08:12:13 AM

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Charter member of the "Cars apart Club"

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20



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I just put a turbo Buick rear end in my 79 Malibu. That was exactly the way I did it, and it worked great.
Good luck

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Larry L.

Coon Rapids



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Thanks Mitch.  Nuts are all off at the axel CA bushings. Ready to remove bolts.   Good tip to jack up to remove tension on bolts. I’ll be happy if I get everything out today.  Acell assembly code indicates 3.08 posi Dana 11/26 one day later than posi date. Axel housing date  Oct 30 65.  Build date cowl tag 1st week of nov.  Verifying the cowl tag was stamped before before the actual build started.



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Jim L

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Well everything is out that I wanted?  One  Muffler was bad,  so pulled that.  exhaust was replaced and brake line changed , so all that had to be loosen to get at the control arm nuts off. Kind of a pain.  Now a break until after the holidays and parts have arrived.  First will be cleaning and some paint. Besides posi rebuild looks like one axel/bearing.  No will have to insist a little help to get housing on a couple of saw horses.  CA nuts look new, I would like to reuse  them if advisable?  Best to buy a bushing removal/install kit?  

 


Didn’t think a CA bolt that has been in a car for 56+ yrs could look new.

 

 


-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 15th of December 2021 04:01:54 PM



-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 15th of December 2021 04:04:07 PM



-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 15th of December 2021 04:13:33 PM

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Jim L

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O'Rielly's rents a lot of tools. They may have something that would work.
I have used my press in the past, but it is out in the back building with no heat..banghead



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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I’ve got a set of upper and lower CA boxed and painted, just need to install the new bushings.  Need to remove bushings from housing, looks like I can do that with some washers, a large socket, a few washers, and a bolt and nuts.  My friend Duane has a press and a heated garage. Wish there were some magical word I could use and everything would be clean and ready for paint.  Or try the walk around drill method.

 

In the basement.



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Jim L

Lake City



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Hi Jim,
I made some tools to remove mine and you are welcome to use them if you want.
They are a little beat up from the effort but should still work, made them from some pipe

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Bruce L. - Lakeville MN

1971 Malibu Convert

1951 Pontiac Chieftain Super Deluxe Catalina Hardtop 



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jim larson wrote:

I’ve got a set of upper and lower CA boxed and painted, just need to install the new bushings.  Need to remove bushings from housing, looks like I can do that with some washers, a large socket, a few washers, and a bolt and nuts.  My friend Duane has a press and a heated garage. Wish there were some magical word I could use and everything would be clean and ready for paint.  Or try the walk around drill method.

 

In the basement.


 The drill method works well on the housing bushings. Once the rubber is out, you collapse the shell with a punch and knock it out. Not as easy with the arms, as the sides are too flexible to collapse the shell as easy. You need a spacer between the arms to maintain the correct width for either the collapse or press/push the bushings out and back in.

You'll be repainting any parts that need bushings...doh



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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Thanks for the offer Bruce; I thinks I can barrow something here in LC.  Mitch the CA are going in my pile if used parts.  I have a set already boxed, media blasted, and painted; I just need to install the bushing.  Looks Luke the freezer method, then out to my friend heated shop with a press.



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Jim L

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OK, the old bushings are already out.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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Progressing slowly.  In KY now, hope to get the project done  by Janruay 31st.  Bob has been helping out with a posi rebuild and installation og new carrier earrings.



-- Edited by jim larson on Wednesday 29th of December 2021 09:23:16 AM

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Jim L

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Ah, the Corvette Museum. I take it there was no significant damage from the tornadoes a few weeks ago ? The Corvette factory lost part of it's roof and the prep/storage garages were hit hard.
I went thru the museum last July with the group from the Supercar forum after a day of drag racing at Beech Bend Raceway.
Stay warm, we sure aren't...hyper



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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Lost in the 60s wrote:

Ah, the Corvette Museum. I take it there was no significant damage from the tornadoes a few weeks ago ? The Corvette factory lost part of it's roof and the prep/storage garages were hit hard.
I went thru the museum last July with the group from the Supercar forum after a day of drag racing at Beech Bend Raceway.
Stay warm, we sure aren't...hyper


 It will be colder when I get back the 4 thcool  below 0 in the morning, quite a change from 70+ here the other day.

Yes there was some damage in that area,  some buildings had damage other no damage.  Damage to the plant was obvious.



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Jim L

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Progress is slow; but steady.  I got all the grease and gunk off. Not the best job for the garage.  If I had a trailer and help to load the housing I could have taken it to be pressure washed.  Now to carped the remaining paint and thick rust off.    I think I will use an Eastwood chassis paint. Backing plates also cleaned.  

Having difficulty removing the axel bearings.  The tool they sell and slide hammer is worthless.  I wish you could make the tool into a puller.  Going to try Bobs suggestion of making a puller to put pressure on the bearing and try to knock it loose from the back side with a long rod.  If anyone has a subjection let me know or if they know of a puller.



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Jim L

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Bearings are out, grease removed, now for removing surface rust and paint.  A little embaracessed to explain the issue with removing the bearings.  Just wanted to say it was not the tools, etc, so that leaves my brain.    I will not make that mistake again.cuckoocuckoocuckoo



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Jim L

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Glad to ese your making progress!

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Bruce L. - Lakeville MN

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Well I decided to remove the pinion seal and possibly replace the front  bearing. Everything looks good.  Also considering a spacer instead of the old crush sleeve to set the pre-load. A little delayed on painting the housing.  Would be nice to have a parts washer and a blast cabinet.  Since I was as far as I was on cleaning the housing I decided not to have it powercoated.  Actually pretty reasonable I thought.  About $400  to have it cleaned at thermo, then acid dipped to remove rust, a light sand blasting, and then powercoated Including transportation.  $250 to do the backing plates, springs, and spring plates.



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Jim L

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A43CA2EE-C4FE-40F4-8D50-81DCE620A247.jpegGot the CA finished.  Bushings went in fine.  No freezer needed,just left outside overnight. A little more sanding and cleaning needed on spring and backing plates and they will be ready for paint.  Kind of odd, the top coil of the springs, the area that went under the insulator was dipped in black paint.  The rest and the hold dow clamps were bare steel.  The backing plates and axel tubes were bare steel the cast iron part of the housing was also bare.  But sometimes they sprayed the axel housing black, along with the housing side of the backing plates, and  the outside of the brake drums.

28AF364A-5C3C-43A9-A86B-AF84243720E6.jpeg



-- Edited by jim larson on Friday 21st of January 2022 07:21:01 PM

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Jim L

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You're making progress...tiphat



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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Feels good to be done with painting the housing.  Kind of a makeshift painting booth6EA56202-C81E-4D20-8380-3F71112333BA.jpegF4541FA2-5612-4F5E-8BFB-F4AA155EF422.jpeg



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Jim L

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Looks good, Jim !!

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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That is nice!

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Larry L.

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Thanks to Bob the posi is finished and installed.  More things completed. Housing to be installed this week.  Classic Muscle sent some wrong parts.  I had to install both muffler,  they has to be flipped and rotated 180 to get things lined up so I could installed frame reinforcements. And get the exhaust to exit close to factor so I could access the CA nuts.  Universal doesn’t mean it will fit.  Beginning to think I should have got a correct exhaust system. Painting and cleaning done.beers

 

By the way I have a new companion.



-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 8th of February 2022 03:53:27 PM

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Jim L

Lake City



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Looks great Jim. And your new buddy’s a cutie.

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Kevin

Northwestern Ohio



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Getting close; but as usual I put to much oil in. Do I have to get it too 1/2” below the fill hole?  If so is there an esy way to get some oil out?  I don’t have anyth8ng to suck it out,  What about jacking the rear up as much as possible and hoping some drains out.  Going to let it sit overnight so the axe l tubes have the required amount.



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Jim L

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I don't leave mine below the fill hole. I usually want it to dribble out.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Charter member of the "Cars apart Club"

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

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