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Post Info TOPIC: Olds Window Project


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Olds Window Project
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We learned during our first driving season with the Olds that both the windshield and rear window leak upon washing or getting caught in the rain.  They aren't horrible leaks, but they're not acceptable to its owner.  Following a tech support phone call with Karl and a trip to purchase a new tool (yes, this trip involved ice cream), we dove in.  Per Karl's advice, we started with the rear window.  Other than the top corners, where the seal was not adhered to the glass, the seal was a bugger to cut through.  We were able to easily remove the seal from the car, and there is no corrosion in the channel.  The windshield is another story.  Before the car was last painted, a silicone-like substance was laid in between the glass and the window frame, presumably in an attempt to stop the leaks.  After removing all that, we proceeded to cut the seal on the windshield.  The only place the windshield was fully attached was along the bottom.  After removing the seal, we found a moderate amount of corrosion in the driver's side lower corner and passenger side upper corner.  Attempts to push through the corrosion with a screwdriver failed (thankfully), so the plan is to clean up the channel and have the glass professionally reinstalled.  We also need to replace one missing molding clip stud screw so the trim will lay flat to the window.



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Chris S.

Oak Grove

'68 Malibu (His)

'68 442 (Hers)



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Looks way better than most.
Depending on how careful/fussy you want to be on prep, there may be value in pulling inside trim.
Double up duct tape on outside surface, take your time prepping,
Check with your glass specialist on priming, painting etc.

On the newer vehicles the urethane is actually structural, working with the glass for strength.
Some of the urethanes won't stick to fresh paint, primarily urethanes.
We are told to use the 3M or equivalent pinch weld primer on those contact areas unless paint is fully cured. (3-4 months)

Not such a big deal on our "Treasures" though.
So, you are probably good with black lacquer aerosol.

Looking good!
Karl


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More ambition than brains,

If you have more than 5 of anything, best to stop counting!



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Good that you're getting it fixed, nice that it was stilled sealed "on the bottom"rolleyes



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Bruce L. - Lakeville MN

1971 Malibu Convert

1951 Pontiac Chieftain Super Deluxe Catalina Hardtop 



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more ambition than brains wrote:

Looks way better than most.
Depending on how careful/fussy you want to be on prep, there may be value in pulling inside trim.
Double up duct tape on outside surface, take your time prepping,
Check with your glass specialist on priming, painting etc.

On the newer vehicles the urethane is actually structural, working with the glass for strength.
Some of the urethanes won't stick to fresh paint, primarily urethanes.
We are told to use the 3M or equivalent pinch weld primer on those contact areas unless paint is fully cured. (3-4 months)

Not such a big deal on our "Treasures" though.
So, you are probably good with black lacquer aerosol.

Looking good!
Karl


 I'll second this from an OEM standpoint. When I was officed out in our bodyshop, we always used the little bottles of 3M black or clear and "bunny nuts" for application, but when my Chevelle got a new windshield, it wasn't specifically necessary.

 



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Bryan-NW 'burbs
1972 Malibu
Vaguely stock appearing, and the opposite of restored.
1999 std bore 5.7, Vortec heads, Holley Stealth Ram, GM cam
700R4, Viking coilovers, 12 bolt 4.10 posi, and a whole bunch more

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